Korean army stew (budae jjigae)

The dish gets its name, army stew, from harder times, and true to its namesake, it’s loaded up with all things plain but wonderful — instant ramen, salty Spam, chewy rice cakes and silky soft tofu. The broth is thick and rich, laced with earthy umami tones from kombu and anchovies, dyed fiery-red with kimchi and gochujang, and spicy enough to make you sweat even when your fingers are still thawing from the cold outside. I love how its balanced complexity was cobbled together from the plain and simple in times of scarcity — it’s a lemons-from-lemonade kind of magic.

If you happen to have a hot pot or fondue pot, this would be amazing right at the table. Otherwise, be sure to enjoy immediately, and keep the soup simmering while you eat for refills. You can add more water (or dashi stock, if you have extra on hand) as the broth boils down, and more ramen as you eat it.