So simple, so perfect – this is a recipe that can make the world seem alright again. It originated as a hearty soup for Paris market workers who needed to warm themselves up on cold mornings. France Vidal loves it as her winter treat and prefers not to use stock as the basis, using water instead. She advises to buy the best brown onions – fresh with papery skins – and to cook them until deeply golden, as that’s where all the depth of flavour and sweetness come from. She also says to use the best gruyère and baguette.
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