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Chilli con carneChilli con carne

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Chilli con carneMeaning "chilli with meat", this dish prompts fiery debate. Where and how the classic originated is a controversial topic among various American states – although Texas, with chilli con carne (also known as chili) as its state dish, is arguably frontrunner for the title. Even more contentious is what makes the perfect "bowl o’ red". As the International Chili Society says, "Never has there been anything mild about chili".

Marron medallions with vanilla sabayon and potato crispsMarron medallions with vanilla sabayon and potato crisps

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Marron medallions with vanilla sabayon and potato crispsPlace marrons in the freezer for 2 hours to put them into a stupor; this is the most humane way to cook them. Place marrons in a pan of boiling salted water for 30 seconds. Immediately plunge into cold water until cool. Remove and discard heads, then, using kitchen scissors, cut down the back of the shell. Remove flesh in one piece.

Place marrons in a small saucepan, tucking tails under to ensure even cooking, and add onion, thyme, peppercorns, celery and wine. Pour in enough cold water to cover. Cook over medium heat for 4 minutes or until flesh changes colour and is almost cooked through. Remove from heat and cool in liquid. Drain.

To make crisps, fill a deep-fryer or saucepan one-third full with oil and heat over medium heat to 160°C (or until a cube of bread turns golden in 20 seconds). Working in 2 batches, drop potato slices into oil and fry, turning halfway, for 5 minutes or until crisp and golden. Remove with a slotted spoon. Drain on paper towel. Season with salt.

To make the sabayon, place vanilla bean and seeds, egg yolk and Champagne in a heatproof bowl. Place bowl snugly over a pan of simmering water; ensure bowl doesn’t touch the water. Using a tea towel to hold the bowl, whisk vigorously for 8 minutes or until thick and frothy.

Divide cabbage leaves among plates. Place 3 marrons on each leaf and serve with potato crisps and sabayon. Garnish with baby herbs.

Drink 2010 Joseph Drouhin Chablis, Burgundy, France ($37)

Photography by Brett Steven

Fruit riotFruit riot

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Fruit riot“We do this dish in many variations at Arras. This recipe is a more achievable home version, but no less visual. With the fruits, opt for ones at the height of their season and the dish will explode with flavour,” says Adam Humphrey. At the restaurant, he folds powdered crystallised violets through the cream and uses some to dust the finished dessert.

Barnyard farm quail with winter carrot saladBarnyard farm quail with winter carrot salad

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Barnyard farm quail with winter carrot saladThe textures, flavours and colours of this salad are a perfect balance for a warm winter treat.

Wine match Sorrenberg Gamay 2011, Beechworth, Vic
This is a dish centred around some gamy quail, whose richness is enhanced but also freshened up by quite a punchy, herby and fruity salad. The key elements are the sweet carrots, the rich quail and the general zing of the salad. This is the time for a light red that will draw upon some of the quail flavours, complement the carrot sweetness and not overpower the salad. The dressing isn’t too vinegary so no need to worry about having a highly acidic wine. You could go with a Gamay, the classic grape of Beaujolais, a Pinot Noir or another light, unoaked red variety.
-Dan Coward

Mussels with cultured butterMussels with cultured butter

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Mussels with cultured butterAustralia has wonderful seafood and simple recipes that allow the flavour and quality of the seafood to be showcased are often the best. Unsalted cultured butter perfectly complements mussels by absorbing some of the saltiness of the mussels and providing creaminess. Live pot-ready mussels should be used such as those from Kinkawooka in South Australia.

Wine match Brokenwood Forest Edge Chardonnay 2011, Orange, NSW
What an absolutely classic dish. Instead of the tangy white wine you sometimes find in the dish, here we have this beautiful cultured butter, which builds such creaminess. This calls for a different kind of wine compared to the white wine sauce… something a little richer, with more body and oomph. You could think about a barrel-fermented Sauvignon Blanc, but I’m tempted to lean towards a Chardonnay  and, seeing as we’re in NSW for this dish, let’s stick with one of the excellent examples from Orange. Chardonnay has the creaminess to match the butter, but also the acid on the finish to keep things clean. This complex example from Brokenwood has just the right combination of body and balance.
-Dan Coward

Olive and fig tapenadeOlive and fig tapenade

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Olive and fig tapenadeTraditionally, tapenade is simply made with olive paste and capers. Capers are a must. Tapenade originated in the French region of Provence and the name is derived from the Provencal word for capers, ‘tapenas’. Often anchovies are also used. The great thing about tapenade is that you can add any number of ingredients depending on the flavours you like — such as garlic, pepper, chilli, basil, parsley etc. This particular tapenade is a classic combination of two traditional Mediterranean products — olives and figs.

Spread the tapenade on baguette slices brushed with olive oil, as a dip on a platter with vegetables, or on crackers or pita triangles. You can also add it to a vinaigrette, or stir into a pasta for an easy sauce and serve with some grated parmesan.

Wine match Sirromet Signature Collection Viognier 2010, Granite Belt, Qld
An interesting one to match here as the rich, earthy flavour of the black olives might suggest a red wine, but some reds might overpower the flavour, so best to stick with a white. Also, the oil from those olives will need the acid of a white to cut through it. Trying to keep with the local theme, I have chosen a white from probably the best known winery from Queensland’s expanding industry. This Viognier from Sirromet has the spicy accents to go toe to toe with any additional spices you choose to throw in, whilst also having the ripe fruit to pick out that beautiful fresh fig flavour. Get out there and try some Queensland wine – you won’t be disappointed.
-Dan Coward

PissaladierePissaladiere

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PissaladierePissaladiere, or as chef Michael McEnearney likes to call it, French pizza, is a beautiful way to showcase Pepe Saya’s cultured butter. In Mike’s version, the butter is the star of the show.

Wine match Chambers Rutherglen Dry Flor Apera, Rutherglen, Vic
A mouth-watering dish just packed with hearty flavours: the tomato jam, the rich pastry, the salty olives and anchovies and then the confit onion – lots going on! It all makes me think of lazy afternoons in sunny Spain and that makes me think of Sherry. It’s really those sweet and salty edges which go so well with the acid and tangy, sea air flavours of dry sherry. Of course, we can’t call it that here thanks to some grumpy EU lawmakers, but there are plenty of great Australian options as long as you look around. Rutherglen is a great area for fortified wines, especially the sweeter styles, but they also excel at dry sherries as well, like this example from the historic Chambers winery.
-Dan Coward

Goat pithivier with juniper, winter vegetables and toasted spiceGoat pithivier with juniper, winter vegetables and toasted spice

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Goat pithivier with juniper, winter vegetables and toasted spiceChef Ashley Martin loves the flavour of goat and demonstrates a fantastic dish using this tender, versatile meat.

Drinks match Samuel’s Gorge Tempranillo 2011, McLaren Vale, SA
I had a very close encounter with a roasted goat in Rioja once and it left me slightly traumatised. Fortunately, all is well now and the only part of the memory that remains is the fantastic suitability of the local Tempranillo-based wines. Add in toasted spice and winter vegetables and it’s a dish just made for the warm, textured and spicy Tempranillos popping up all over Australia. One of the first really successful ones that I remember trying was the Samuel’s Gorge Tempranillo from McLaren Vale. Well, that was several vintages ago, but I had the current vintage just a couple of weeks ago and it retains that inviting, comforting warm spiciness – delicious.
-Dan Coward

Roast duck with mulberry molasses and pinot noirRoast duck with mulberry molasses and pinot noir

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Roast duck with mulberry molasses and pinot noirThe important thing with roasting duck is that the legs and breasts cook very differently, so they shouldn’t be roasted together. This recipe separates these cuts for optimal cooking and uses the classic match of duck and pinot noir. Together with the mulberry molasses this dish creates a balance of fruit flavours with the savoury characteristics of the pinot noir.

Wine match St Erth Pinot Noir 2010, Geelong, Vic
A double challenge here from Adam: to select a wine to cook with that you are also happy to drink. So we're looking for a good value pinot, as you'll probably need a couple of bottles for this shindig. There are some punchy flavours in the dish, so it needs to be at least medium bodied with good fruit intensity. A likely suspect that I tried recently is the $15 St Erth Pinot Noir 2010 from Geelong. Generous red fruit, a hint of savoury and satisfying texture – perfect.
-Dan Coward

Sautéed pearl meatSautéed pearl meat

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Sautéed pearl meatThis dish is a favourite for diners at Flower Drum. Anthony has taken a native Australian ingredient and used Cantonese cooking styles and flavours to create a dish with a delicate flavour that presents beautifully. Traditionally, Cantonese cook many molluscs such as abalone and conch in this way and Anthony found that this method matches the pearl meat perfectly. The pearl meat is from Broome, WA and is thinly sliced, then stir-fried with spring onion and garlic chives and served with oyster sauce.

Wine match Geoff Weaver Sauvignon Blanc 2012, Adelaide Hills, SA
This is a fabulously delicate and elegant dish, so the last thing you want is an overpowering wine. With the asparagus flavour in there as well, you could look towards Sauvignon Blanc, although that asparagus character is usually more associated with New Zealand examples. That aside, it’s still a good choice for its clean minerally acidity, light citrus and apple fruit flavours, and light to medium body. The Adelaide Hills generally produces one of Australia’s lighter Savvy styles and so is a good region to look at.   
-Dan Coward

Slow-cooked pork cheek with fennel, black garlic and calamariSlow-cooked pork cheek with fennel, black garlic and calamari

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Slow-cooked pork cheek with fennel, black garlic and calamariBrent Savage, part owner/executive chef of The Bentley Restaurant and Bar, first discovered black garlic in the famous Las Ramblas market in Barcelona. Matching the black garlic with one of his favourite ingredients, the pork cheek, he has created this inspirational dish which still features on his menu at The Bentley.

Wine match Ochota Barrels Surfer Rosa Sangiovese Garnacha Rosé 2012, Adelaide Hills, SA
The rosé revolution kicks off all around Australia before too long, and you'd be mad not to raise arms and join the merry band. And, speaking of bands, how about this Pixies-inspired Adelaide Hills rosé from winemaker Taras Ochota (he uses musical/album references on his labels). It perfectly walks the line between savoury intrigue and friendly fruitiness. And that’s just what you need with this fantastic dish. Once again, dry rosé can provide the perfect foil to a complex, meaty dish because it’s a great wine for providing a textural component and a savoury nod. It perfectly props up and champions the complex flavours without compromising them in any way.
-Dan Coward

Vanilla-and-lime chicken skewersVanilla-and-lime chicken skewers

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Vanilla-and-lime chicken skewersDelicious, tender chicken marinated in vanilla salt and lime zest is lovely as an entrée or a great addition to your barbecue menu.

Wine match Hahndorf Hill Gruner Veltliner – GRU 2012, Adelaide Hills, SA
In my head, I don’t usually put lime and vanilla together, but this bright and breezy dish seems like just the thing for enjoying on a warm day at a barbecue. And so you’ll want an outdoor friendly white to go with it. No real fat, chilli heat or heavy sauce to worry about so you can pick a white that is delicate and clean. This is the second visit this series to the Austrian Gruner Veltliner variety because I think it has such food-friendly properties. It calls to mind citrus and light stone fruit sprinkled with spicy white pepper, and so you get interest and plenty of fresh, clean flavours and acidity – definitely one to try if you get the chance.
-Dan Coward

Gulab jamun with saffron yoghurt ice-creamGulab jamun with saffron yoghurt ice-cream

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Gulab jamun with saffron yoghurt ice-creamThis recipe has a long history for me as it was the first dish I ever made with my mother. I hope you enjoy it as much as I have over the years.

Drinks match Best's Great Western Late Harvest Muscat 2009, Grampians, Vic
This is nothing like the sticky, stodgy Gulab Jamun I remember having at the local Indian restaurant every week at university! It's a delicately spiced dish with that cooling, intriguing saffron-infused accompaniment. Because of that spice element, I wouldn't want to overpower it with tonnes of sweetness and botrytis fruit character, so a lighter, late harvest white might be the go here. We're looking for that fruit to be an accent here, rather than a dominating character, and the floral, spiciness of a Muscat suits well.
-Dan Coward

KimchiKimchi

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KimchiKnown as Korea’s national dish, kimchi can be used in hundreds of ways, such as in hot pots, stir-fries and braises. David Ralph and wife Jin Sun share her mother’s famous family recipe for this versatile, well-known dish.

Wine match Jim Barry Watervale Riesling 2012, Clare Valley, SA
This is a challenge because kimchi is often an accompaniment to a main dish, which would be the focus for the pairing. So, with that in mind, I've imagined that it has been served with a typically spicy and salty main dish, perhaps a kimchichigae, a spicy stew made of kimchi, pork, vegetables, and tofu. With all that spice, I think you want a light, crisp white wine that will cleanse the palate and provide maximum refreshment. The new crop of outstanding 2012 Rieslings have just started to hit the shelves, so this is the best place to look, with beautiful tangy citrus, mineral and floral flavours to the fore.
-Dan Coward

Oysters and succulentsOysters and succulents

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Oysters and succulentsChef Ben Shewry, of famed Melbourne restaurant Attica, lives close to the sea where there is an abundance of edible wild plants and vegetables. Ben harvests the wild plants by hand every day for the menu at Attica. Many of his Attica dishes utilise foraged ingredients. In order to showcase the uniqueness of these ingredients best, he prefers to keep them raw and in their natural state.

Wine match Oliver’s Taranga Vermentino 2012, McLaren Vale, SA
What a cool dish! I feel it's cheating slightly not to have foraged in the wild for the accompanying wine after so much work has been done by the chef on the beach. To match the briny oyster, the pickled lemon and the beach succulents, we want a lighter bodied white with citrus as a backbone and a pure acid line down the middle. This will act like a squeeze of lemon on this dish and will only heighten the overall experience. Vermentino is also a white grape we've visited in the series before and it calls to mind beaches, if only for sitting next to while dining, rather than foraging on. This small batch version from Oliver’s Taranga ticks all of the boxes.
-Dan Coward

Darryl’s Daintree chocolate crème bruleeDarryl’s Daintree chocolate crème brulee

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Darryl’s Daintree chocolate crème bruleeDaryl Kirk demonstrates his passion for cocoa beans a different way, by cooking his famous chocolate crème brulee in a barbecue.

Wine match Seppeltsfield No 7 Tawny NV, Barossa Valley, SA
Chocolate is always an interesting one. It's coming at the end of the meal, when you're full of food and, often, red wine. For many, continuing with red wine is a safe ploy and when it's bitter, dark chocolate in play then a rich, fruity red or sparkling red is a strong choice. When it's a creamier, sweeter proposition like this, then you do need a bit more sweetness in your accompanying drink. The Portuguese might serve a chilled tawny port in this situation and I think it's a smart play. There's sweetness, but also acid balance, and refreshment value as well. Tawny port isn't always warm, sweet and from a large flagon. Try this from contemporary example from Seppeltsfield as a delightful alternative.
-Dan Coward

Lao/Vietnamese ginger chickenLao/Vietnamese ginger chicken

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Lao/Vietnamese ginger chickenStrain the rice and place in a mortar. Pound with a pestle for 4 minutes, or until crushed. Stir in the stock and set aside.

Add the vegetable oil to a hot wok. Add the garlic and ginger, then sauté over medium-high heat until fragrant. Add the chicken and stir-fry for 2 minutes over high heat. Add the Thai and lemon basil and chilli. Strain the stock mixture from the mortar, discarding the rice. Add to the chicken mixture and stir until combined. Add the oyster sauce, sugar and a pinch of sea salt and stir-fry for a further minute.

Transfer to a serving platter, garnish with coriander and serve with sticky rice.

Duck's blood saladDuck's blood salad

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Duck's blood saladAdd the vegetable oil to a hot frying pan and sauté the shallot until fragrant. Add the duck liver and a pinch of sea salt and stir-fry for 2 minutes. Remove from the heat and allow to cool.

In a shallow bowl, mix together the duck blood and 125ml water. Tip the liver mixture into a mixing bowl. Add the spring onion, coriander, mint and Vietnamese mint and gently toss. Evenly scatter the mixture over the bowl of duck blood, then garnish with the fried shallots and peanuts. Allow the duck blood to set for 15 minutes. Meanwhile, arrange the accompaniments on a separate plate. Squeeze the lime juice over the salad. Serve with the accompaniments and Lao beer.

Note: Fried Asian shallots are widely available at Asian grocers. To make your own, finely slice 200g red Asian shallots and wash under cold water. Dry the shallot with a cloth, then set aside on paper towels until completely dry. Heat 1 litre vegetable oil in a wok to 180°C (350°F), or until a cube of bread dropped into the oil turns brown in 15 seconds. Fry the shallots in small batches until they turn golden brown, then remove with a slotted spoon to a paper towel. They are best eaten freshly fried, but will keep for up to 2 days in an airtight container. The oil they were cooked in can also be reused.

Chargrilled salt-crusted lemongrass fishChargrilled salt-crusted lemongrass fish

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Chargrilled salt-crusted lemongrass fishSoak a bamboo skewer in cold water for 30 minutes. In a mixing bowl, combine the lemongrass, dill and spring onion. Stuff the mixture into the cavity of the fish, then secure the opening using the bamboo skewer. Rub the whole fish with all the sea salt, coating it well. Heat a chargrill pan or barbecue chargrill plate to medium-high. Chargrill the fish for 10–15 minutes on each side, or until cooked through (the scales and skin should peel easily).

Meanwhile, combine the tamarind dipping sauce ingredients in a small bowl and mix until the sugar has dissolved. Before serving the fish at the table, peel away and discard the scales and skin. Serve the fish hot, with sticky rice and the dipping sauce.

Note: To make tamarind water, soak 100g tamarind pulp in 400ml boiling water. Break it up a little with a whisk, then leave until cool enough to handle. Using your hands, break the mixture into a thick paste. Pass the mixture through a sieve; you should get about 375ml tamarind water.

Pork laapPork laap

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Pork laapPour the stock into a hot wok. When it begins to boil, add the pork meat and liver and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes, or until the meat is cooked.

Transfer the mixture to a mixing bowl and allow to cool for 2 minutes. Add the mint, coriander, spring onion, chilli, rice powder, padek or mam nem and lime juice. Mix together well, then transfer to a serving platter. Garnish with some extra chilli slices.

Serve with the raw vegetables and sticky rice.

Note: To make pork stock, wash 500g pork bones under cold water, then place in a large pot. Peel a 2cm piece of fresh ginger and 4 garlic cloves, then cut each in half and add to the pot. Bash 1 lemongrass stem and 2 spring onions (scallions) with the back of a cleaver or mallet, then add them to the pot. Pour in 2 litres water and bring to the boil. Skim off the impurities from the stock, then reduce the heat and simmer for 2 hours, skimming constantly. Pour the stock through a net strainer into another saucepan and allow to cool. Once cooled, portion into smaller amounts and refrigerate or freeze until required. The stock will last in the fridge for 3 days, or in the freezer for 3 months.
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