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Apple pieApple pie

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Apple pieDespite the saying "as American as apple pie", this famed fruit dessert is credited as an English invention, with the first recorded recipe in the 16th century. Regardless, the apple pie in its modern incarnation is now largely affiliated with the United States, where it inspires fierce debate about what makes the perfect pie.

Sweet and sour stuffed spatchcockSweet and sour stuffed spatchcock

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Sweet and sour stuffed spatchcockPreheat oven to 200°C. Using a mortar and pestle, grind saffron and sugar until fine. Place in a bowl with 60ml hot water and stir to dissolve. Set aside.

Melt 3 tbs ghee in a frying pan over medium heat. Add onion and garlic, and cook for 4 minutes or until golden. Add dried fruits, apple, spices and walnuts, and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes or until fragrant and combined. Add saffron water, and cook for a further 3 minutes or until dried fruits are slightly softened. Stir in pomegranate concentrate and season with salt and pepper. Cool.

Working with one spatchcock at a time, pat skin and cavity dry with paper towel, then rub skin liberally with salt. Fill cavity with dried fruit mixture, then secure with toothpicks.

Place spatchcocks in a greased roasting pan and brush with remaining 3 tbs ghee. Bake, basting halfway, for 45 minutes or until cooked through.

Serve spatchcocks with herbs, pomegranate and saffron rice.

* Dried barberries are tart red berries, available in the frozen section of specialist and Middle Eastern food shops.

* Dried sour cherries are available from selected delis.

* Pomegranate concentrate is from Persian food shops. Pomegranate molasses is slightly thicker in consistency, and is available from delis and Middle Eastern food shops.


As seen in Feast magazine, Issue 13, pg83.

Photography by John Laurie.

Lemon brulee tartLemon brulee tart

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Lemon brulee tartThis sprightly tart has a lovely lemon tang and the richness of cream. You will need a 24cm tart pan with removable base.

Arkady lamb neck croquettes with sauce vertArkady lamb neck croquettes with sauce vert

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Arkady lamb neck croquettes with sauce vertMaking a croquette from lamb sounds a bit unusual, but using slow braised neck and all of its gelatinous wonderment makes such a surprise when you crack through the golden crust! Paired with a salsa verde, it’s piquant-licious…I usually pair this croquette with a grilled or seared tender cut of lamb, such as the cutlet, loin or rump.

Wine match Yabby Lake Single Vineyard Chardonnay 2010, Mornington Peninsula, Vic
This is a dish of beautiful contrasts; the rich and gelatinous lamb with the piquancy of the lemon, capers and parsley in the salsa verde. A mouthful of hot crispy croquette with a dollop of salsa verde needs a wine that can cut through the fat and also resonate with the bright and citrus-y accompaniment. Modern Australian Chardonnay can do just this. With emphasis on clean acid lines, light lemony flavours and a mineral background, it has the weight to match the flavours and the acid to clean to palate.
-Dan Coward

Smoked tomato sorbet on anchovySmoked tomato sorbet on anchovy

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Smoked tomato sorbet on anchovyAnchovies are part of the tapas tapestry. A small plate of top quality anchovies go so well with a few zuritos (little glasses) of icy cold beer. This is our version of anchovies and one of our signature dishes. It is slightly more aligned to the modern style of Spanish cooking with a beautifully clean palate refreshing sorbet made from smoked tomatoes. Smoked tomatoes can be difficult to find but a few good specialty stores stock them. This little dish requires using only the very best anchovies you can buy.

Wine match Seppeltsfield Solero DP117 Pale Dry Flor, Barossa Valley, SA
You could definitely follow Frank's lead and enjoy this with a fresh, dry pilsner lager, but let's be brave and venture into the wonderful world of sherry. It's very traditional in Spain to enjoy a dry sherry with tapas and plenty of laughs after work – and that's just what's needed here. A salty, tangy dry sherry like a fino or manzanilla style will joust perfectly with the salty anchovy and capers, whilst still having the acid and freshness to match the beautiful sorbet. Seppeltsfield have been making great sherry for yonks, so you know that they’ve probably road-tested this one a few times after a hard day in the winery!
-Dan Coward

Apple-brined ginger pork neckApple-brined ginger pork neck

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Apple-brined ginger pork neckUsing a smoking machine, Adam shares this delicious pork recipe. This recipe is beautifully complimented by his grilled corn with hot sauce and lime butter.

Wine match Giant Steps Gladysdale Vineyard Pinot Noir 2010, Yarra Valley, Vic
What we have here is an unctuous, rich and utterly mouth-watering dish high in protein and high in flavour. If you like white wine, then a chardonnay could work well, but, for an even better match, we need some tannin to work with that protein. Given the range of spices in the dish, a medium-bodied, spicy red will help to accentuate the flavours without over-powering. Pinot Noir is a prime candidate in this area, so look no further than the Giant Steps Gladysdale Vineyard Pinot Noir 2010, which is packed with rich, velvety red and black cherry fruit and a hint of something funky.
-Dan Coward

Silas’s chilli coconut prawnsSilas’s chilli coconut prawns

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Silas’s chilli coconut prawnsChef Silas Masih shares one of his favourite dishes from his restaurant, Pepper and Salt, in Denmark, WA.

Wine match Grosset Off Dry Riesling 2011, Clare Valley, SA
This is an intensely spicy dish, with a chilli kick to boot, so finding the right wine is even more important than normal. You don't want a higher alcohol wine, as this will only boost the heat of the dish, so look for a lighter white wine with a hint of sweetness to offset the heat. A tangy white wine with plenty of acid will also act like a squeeze of lemon or lime on the dish – perfect! With all of that in mind, go for this perfectly balanced, floral, zesty Riesling from the king of Clare, Jeffrey Grosset.
-Dan Coward

Braised fennel with tomatoBraised fennel with tomato

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Braised fennel with tomatoWine match Climbing Merlot 2010, Orange, NSW
This dish has a lovely, comforting Mediterranean feel to it and so should an accompanying wine. The key ingredients to think about are the thick tomato sauce and the chilli. Even only mild heat will push you towards a softer, fruitier red, rather than a big tannic beast. And this style will work nicely with the tomato, too. How about a merlot? The Coonawarra is a great region for this grape, so you could look there, but I fancy Orange as the emerging home of great, modern Aussie merlot, so look for this little beauty called Climbing – just the roundness that you want, while still having good structure, with ripe fruit leading the way.
-Dan Coward


Seared calamari saladSeared calamari salad

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Seared calamari saladAustralia’s best known providore, Simon Johnson, says there is nothing better than good food, great friends a good bottle of wine. Simon shares a few dishes using the very best olive oil while cooking from his own private yacht.

Wine match O'Leary Walker Sauvignon Blanc 2012, Adelaide Hills, SA
This fresh, simple and taste-bud tingling dish deserves a wine of a similar style. The calamari is the star here, so make sure the wine doesn’t overwhelm the flavour. This leads us to a lighter white wine, with plenty of acidity, which will act like an extra squeeze of lemon over the dish. This is the perfect occasion for a sauvignon blanc, and the bottle for the job is the vibrant and zippy O’Leary Walker Sauvignon Blanc from the Adelaide Hills. The deliciously fresh 2012 has just been released by the winery, but you might still be lucky and find a bottle of the trophy-winning 2011 vintage in the shops.
-Dan Coward

Upside down apple tart (tarte tatin)Upside down apple tart (tarte tatin)

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Upside down apple tart (tarte tatin)Originally invented by the Tatin sisters at the beginning of the 20th century, tarte tatin recipes have become a French classic. The classic apple tarte tatin recipe can also be done in many different variations with pear, banana, pineapple or mango.

Wine match Glenguin The Sticky Botrytised Semillon 2009, Hunter Valley, NSW
This is a sticky, sweet and pretty damn decadent dessert that can stand up to quite an intense dessert wine. You want to make sure that the wine has good balance, which means plenty of natural acid to keep the sugar in check. This helps give the wine a really clean and refreshing finish; great when you think of that rich pastry and caramel combo. You can reach for a botrytis wine (usually riesling or semillon), which means the grapes have been shrivelled and concentrated in the vineyard, so the sweetness is intensified. Try a Hunter Valley Semillon like this one from Glenguin – a great little producer based in Broke Fordwich.
-Dan Coward

Baby potatoes cooked in aromates and clayBaby potatoes cooked in aromates and clay

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Baby potatoes cooked in aromates and clayTaking inspiration from his local potato farmers, Norman and Robyn, Justin North uses their baby potatoes, as small as the size of your fingernail to create this exciting dish. Crack the clay at the table to reveal your potato surprise.

Wine match Centennial Vineyards Blanc de Blancs NV, Southern Highlands, NSW
What a cool-looking dish. Of course, it could form part of a main meal, presented and opened at the table, but I reckon it would make even more visual and tactile impact at the aperitif stage of the night, and the potatoes are small enough not to ruin the appetite. In that case, a sparkling pinot noir chardonnay blend will suit well; the salty potatoes will love the crisp clean lines of some top bubbly. Let’s stay local to the Highlands and go for the intense and citrus-packed Centennial Vineyards Blanc de Blancs.
-Dan Coward

Baked fig tartBaked fig tart

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Baked fig tartOne of Gumnut Patisserie’s best sellers is their baked fig tart. You can substitute the tart with strawberries, but it’s hard to go past fresh figs when they are in season. Head chef Tracy Nikl of Gumnut loves this dish, adding that the simple dishes are often the best.

Wine match Campbells Rutherglen Topaque NV, Rutherglen, Vic
Surely a more satisfying and life-affirming dessert would be hard to find. And to match it you’d do well to go for something equally soothing for the soul. With the eggy, creamy mixture, the rich pastry and the delicious baked figs you need a wine with sufficient richness and texture but not overbearing sweetness. Campbells Rutherglen Topaque (formerly known as Tokay) is the perfect candidate because of the complementary fig and toffee flavours and wonderful structure that shows just enough acid to carry the day.
-Dan Coward

Cerdo en nogadaCerdo en nogada

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Cerdo en nogadaThis dish a modern Australian interpretation of a traditional Mexican dish called "chiles en nogada"’. This dish represents the three colours of the Mexican flag with the pomegranate, green chillies and white walnut sauce, and is eaten during the national independence festivities of Mexico. Together the chefs at Mamasita have altered the dish to give it a modern twist.

Wine match Philip Shaw Pink Billy Saignée 2012, Orange, NSW
What a Mexican pork feast! The spice blend here adds masses of character without heat, so you can be quite creative with the wine. Pork also lends itself to both white and red, depending on the accompaniments. How about something in the middle? Rosé is completely underestimated when it comes to food matching – I love it. This Philip Shaw rosé (a merlot, shiraz and cabernet franc blend) is dry, savoury, fresh and textured, and is the perfect platform to help the spicy pork to show off its wares. The texture is a key point here as it helps it to pair brilliantly with even rich meat dishes.
-Dan Coward

Lamb rump with almond milk farro, heirloom carrots, sweetbreads and olive caramelLamb rump with almond milk farro, heirloom carrots, sweetbreads and olive caramel

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Lamb rump with almond milk farro, heirloom carrots, sweetbreads and olive caramelThis is a very earthy dish – the farro and almond milk cooked to create porridge. A great combo with the young lamb (it’s a mother’s milk approach), whereas the black fermented garlic and the carrots are deep and earthy.

Wine match Vasse Felix Cabernet Merlot 2010, Margaret River, WA
This is a beautiful dish that balances intense and earthy flavours on the one hand, with the complex interplay of lots of subtle ingredients on the other. Lamb rump would normally crave a big cabernet, but this might just overpower the rest of the dish. So, a variation on the same theme leads us to a medium-bodied cabernet merlot blend from a moderate climate region like Margaret River. Vasse Felix is legendary in the region and this wine combines elegance with pure fruit and lovely soft tannins. It will give work well with the lamb without killing the other flavours in the dish.
-Dan Coward

PupusasPupusas

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PupusasPupusas are maize flour pancakes filled with various ingredients. The most popular are with refried beans, pork and cheese. Other versions may use a combination of prawns, zucchini, or spinach and cheese.

Lilian Funes de Murga, owner and chef of Los Latinos restaurant in Melbourne, talks us through this recipe of her childhood, which she developed in Australia.

Beer match Doss Blockos Pale Lager, Melbourne, Vic
To me, this “eat with your hands” kind of dish screams out for something cold, crisp and lager-like. There’s some lovely spice in there, a little heat and plenty of fresh, crunchy vegetables. That sort of combo is just asking for a flavour-filled beer with a bit of punch to it, so it can stand up to the intense papusas. For that reason, I reach for an impressive, (relatively) new kid on the block – the Doss Blockos Pale Lager from East 9th Brewing in Melbourne. It’s got a real hoppy kick, a bit of body and plenty of refreshment value.
-Dan Coward

Roast duck with mulberry molasses and pinot noirRoast duck with mulberry molasses and pinot noir

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Roast duck with mulberry molasses and pinot noirThe important thing with roasting duck is that the legs and breasts cook very differently, so they shouldn’t be roasted together. This recipe separates these cuts for optimal cooking and uses the classic match of duck and pinot noir. Together with the mulberry molasses this dish creates a balance of fruit flavours with the savoury characteristics of the pinot noir.

Wine match St Erth Pinot Noir 2010, Geelong, Vic
A double challenge here from Adam: to select a wine to cook with that you are also happy to drink. So we're looking for a good value pinot, as you'll probably need a couple of bottles for this shindig. There are some punchy flavours in the dish, so it needs to be at least medium bodied with good fruit intensity. A likely suspect that I tried recently is the $15 St Erth Pinot Noir 2010 from Geelong. Generous red fruit, a hint of savoury and satisfying texture – perfect.
-Dan Coward

Wood-grilled lobster with tomalley butter and grilled lemonWood-grilled lobster with tomalley butter and grilled lemon

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Wood-grilled lobster with tomalley butter and grilled lemonUsing wood from grape vines, Adam grills his lobster on an outdoor wood-fire grill. Using the tomalley from the inside of the lobster, he makes a butter to compliment the lobster with a beautiful, rich seafood flavour.

Wine match Domaine A ‘Lady A’ Sauvignon Blanc 2008, Coal River Valley, Tas
Always trust the locals! When they match their regional produce with a nearby wine, just thank your lucky stars and tuck in. This is the root of most famous wine matches around the world, and you know they’ve been practising! This is such a luxurious lobster dish that it deserves a white with a bit of creamy texture, as well as some fresh citrus. It needs a lick of acidity, too, to clean up the palate, so Peter’s long-lived, complex, barrel-aged sauvignon blanc does the trick perfectly.
-Dan Coward

Ancient Greek skillet lasagne

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Many people will be surprised to know that pasta is not really uniquely Italian and that Greeks have been making pasta since ancient times. Lasagne was first made in ancient Greece and lasagne actually has its origins from ancient Greece.

Ancient Greeks had a pan called lasagne, which according to Homer was used to bake flat sheets of dough. The Greeks brought that pan and flat dough with them wherever they colonised and one of the main areas they colonised was Italy.

You will find many pasta varieties in Greece and of course pasta dishes. For this recipe I have used ingredients that were available in ancient Greece. Tomatoes were not available; however, you can include them in the sauce.

Sweet chestnuts in burrSweet chestnuts in burr

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Sweet chestnuts in burrAs part of a kaiseki menu at the Japanese Embassy in Canberra, chef Mr Shioi takes inspiration from the seasons by recreating autumn foliage with this beautiful dish.

Drink match Sun Masamune Go-Shu Blue Junmai Ginjo Sake, Penrith, NSW
Here, we’re looking for a drink that can let the delicate flavours shine. It should be able to hint at the sweet nuttiness of the chestnut, while also cleaning the palate after the crunch of the fried noodles and meringue. Time to turn to Australia’s small but prospering sake industry. Based near the Blue Mountains in New South Wales, Sun-Masamune have been producing sake from high-quality Australian rice and natural water for more than 15 years. The most readily available is their Go-Shu Blue sake, which is a good place to start: dry, smooth and with a nice interplay of sweet and savoury flavours.
-Dan Coward

Dobin mushiDobin mushi

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Dobin mushiChef Mr Shioi shows us a simple dish that he often serves at the Japanese Embassy in Canberra.

Wine match Clonakilla Riesling 2012, Canberra, ACT
This is a very delicate dish with simple, yet intricate, flavours, so it needs to be sensitively handled on the wine front. In this situation, a dry Aussie riesling can often be the best way to go. Australia makes undoubtedly some of the best dry riesling in the world, with everything from slate, to floral, to intense citrus flavours. When you’re in Australia’s capital, you don’t have too far to travel to find it. Clonakilla is rightly famous for its shiraz viognier, but the riesling is also superb, with laser-like edges and a beautiful balance of flavours, such as white flowers, apple and citrus fruit.
-Dan Coward
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