I had only ever smoked a goose breast and made goose confit before I had the chance to rear and cook my own geese. The results were such a revelation. The meat was dark and tender and sweet and complex, the smoke present but not too dominant. It’s worth giving it a crack if you get the chance. You can substitute duck for the goose, if you like. The cabbage and fennel salad benefits from being dressed an hour or so before serving.Standing time: overnight
Smoking time: 10 hours
Level of difficulty: confident cook
Season: Autumn
You will need to begin this recipe 2 days ahead.