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River fish celebration

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Far upriver from the coast of Rakhine State lies Mrauk U, a sleepy tourist destination of villages and Buddhist ruins. On my last night there, the main dish for supper at the guesthouse where I was staying was a whole fish — I can’t tell you the kind — cooked this way. It’s a remarkable expression of the Rakhine palate, with chillies, galangal as well as ginger, and a little bitterness from cooked coriander.

You’ll need a pan that is large enough to hold the whole fish (snapper or trout is a good choice), one with a tight-fitting lid to seal the steam in.

Serve with rice or boiled new potatoes. Start with a light soup, and serve a mild vegetable dish alongside.


Marinating time: 15 minutes
Level of difficulty: easy

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