Figs are abundant in Jerusalem and many trees, bearing the most
delectable fruit, actually belong to no one, so anybody can help
themselves. Summer months are always tinted with the smell of wild
herbs and ripe figs. The mother of Sami’s childhood neighbour and
friend, Jabbar, used her roof to dry the glut of figs (and tomatoes)
in the hot summer sun, spending hours cleaning and sorting them
meticulously. Poor Um Jabbar — Sami and her son never wasted
time and used to sneak up to her roof regularly, stealing her figs at
their peak and causing havoc. This wasn’t enough for Jabbar though.
The boy had such a sweet tooth that he always carried around with
him an old match box full of sugar cubes, just in case. Unfortunately,
this habit had clear ramifications, evident in his ‘charming’ smile.
This unusual combination of fresh fruit and roasted vegetables is one of the most popular at Ottolenghi. It wholly depends, though, on the figs being sweet, moist and perfectly ripe. Go for plump fruit with an irregular shape and a slightly split bottom. Pressing against the skin should result in some resistance but not much. Try to smell the sweetness. The balsamic reduction is very effective here, both for the look and for rounding up the flavours. To save you from making it you can look out for products such as balsamic cream or glaze.