Using a mortar and pestle, grind the juniper berries, peppercorns, thyme and 1 tsp sea salt to a fine powder, then rub into venison. Shape each backstrap into a log, secure with kitchen string and refrigerate for 1 hour. Remove 30 minutes before cooking.
To make braised fennel, soak fennel wedges in acidulated water. Melt butter in a heavy-based saucepan over medium heat and cook garlic for 1 minute or until fragrant. Add drained fennel and juniper berries, and cook for 5 minutes or until fennel starts to soften. Add wine and cook for a further 5 minutes or until the fennel is tender. Season and keep warm.
Preheat oven to 200°C. Heat an ovenproof frying pan over medium heat. Rub venison with oil, then cook, turning occasionally, for 5 minutes or until browned. Transfer pan to the oven and cook for 15 minutes for medium, or until cooked to your liking. Transfer to a plate, cover loosely with foil and rest for 10 minutes. Slice venison and serve with braised fennel and fennel fronds.
* Juniper berries are from selected supermarkets and delis.
* Venison is most readily available frozen from selected butchers.
As seen in Feast magazine, Issue 10, pg134.
Photography by John Laurie.