Pandan-scented chicken and tomato curry (ayam masak merah)

Here’s a Malaysian curry with a rich, concentrated, sweet-spicy gravy that is, unusually, flavoured with tomato. Chicken pieces from the thigh and leg work best here as they won’t dry out, as breast pieces are prone to. Skin-on is the way to go and under no circumstances use boned chicken; gnawing the bones clean is definitely a highlight of this lip-smacking dish.